Saturday, May 10, 2008

Train Hem Facing

To finish the train hem, I first flatlined the underlining to the pink silk. Then I cut a 6" wide (plus seam allowance) bias from the underlining to finish the raw edge. I used 6" as that is the amount of train that extends past my top (2nd) petticoat.
You can see the hem facing sewn to the train edge. The other side of the facing has already been pressed under 1/4" for tacking.

After grading and pressing, the hem facing is turned to the inside and pinned down. Those "darts" are historically accurate to "bend" the facing around the train's circular edge. In the Kyoto Fashion book there is a great 1880s train folded back for us to study the underside and its finishing.
I will add a ribbon to both the skirt train and petticoat train to tie together, so when I dance I will be able to pick up both layers and not have to fumble with getting the petticoat up too.

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