Friday, March 20, 2009

18th C Stays Cut Out

I have been working! -really-

Wednesday I managed to copy out my entire pattern for the 1844 Summer Dress. Man, that took a lot longer than expected just to copy out my size for the bodice, retrace my already mock-ed up sleeves and draft the oversleeve. But it's done and now to cutting out and sewing the muslin.

I also cut cut out the pink silk for the outer fashion fabric of my new 18th Century stays as well as the twill I found in my stash. (My goal is to see how many costumes I can make this year without buying new fabric (underlinings and trims not included).

The pink is a bit darker over the tan twill rather than it being a nice bright PINK color on top of a white twill. But oh well.

After much playing, I've decided to sew the boning channels in a royal blue thread. Just for fun. I also thought of red or lime green. Or even a bright Big Bird gold/yellow.
Now wait - I've already decided - no changing of the mind.

And I really struggled with how to place the boning channels (which I will sew this weekend). The pattern gives hardly any suggestions for it: "draw in boning lines according to the picture at left. You can draw them parallel to the CF or fan them out to match the side seam."

OK. That doesn't help. Even for an experienced seamstress who's actually made two 18th C. stays before. SOME sort of layout would be nice. Too many options. Just tell me straight up what it should be for that view.

Anyhow, I spent too much time looking at originals and my own previously made stays to find a boning pattern I could live with. Somehow though, I find myself waning on this project. I blame it on the too expensive pattern with lack of clear directions. But must keep ploughing along. The fun comes with the first jacket and petticoat and those cannot be made without stays.

5 comments:

Jennifer said...

Oh, and I also re-drafted a larger 1780s bum roll from Jean Hunnisett's book and pulled out my late 1850s royal blue silk bonnet to finish before the next event in two weeks. Yikes! Better get to work...

18thcgirl said...

I wanted to let you know that the boning channel placement is very importaint. It will deturmine the shape of your corset... If you have questions feel free to e-mail me. I can help you litbitclothcom@aim.com
www.litttlebits.etsy.com

Cheers

Jennifer said...

Hey, thanks!
I will post my pattern showing the drawn in boning channels. See if they will be ok for me.

BTW, I added your Etsy store to our Resources page a while back (in case you were wondering).

AlohaAroha said...

If you wanted to brighten up the pinkness you could add a third layer of very thin white fabric (we all have something of that description in our stash!) between the silk and the twill.

Jennifer said...

Yes, that would be an excellent way to brighten it up. If only my organdy wasn't of the stiff variety....
But I *could* do linen.
Hmm.. will have to think on that.