Saturday, August 22, 2009

1780s Caraco & Quilted Petticoat

The finished outfit of my 1780s Caraco and Quilted Petticoat:

And the back view:

I simply threw this on my dressform for the photos and did not put the bum roll on first. I made up the roll from Jean Hunnisett's book but lengthened it a bit first for my larger hip circumference.

Although, this being my first 18th C. ensemble, I think I might prefer more of a large bustle-type pillow pad instead. I LOVE 1870s bustles so am used to the larger behind. However with the bum roll, it increased the width of my hips and made me feel fat. I wonder if that would be different in side hoops or panniers as they greatly extend the sides more so than the bum roll?

I used JP Ryan's Caraco pattern made from a 100% cotton duvet from Ikea. I have enough fabric left over to make a matching petticoat. The caraco skirt can also be polonaised up (the correct verb - thank you Val!) which I think will look adorable with the matching petticoat.

Here is the box pleated trim with braid on top. I pleated the fabric strip then ran it through my machine with a basting stitch. I hand tacked the braid on top while simultaneously sewing it to the neckline.

The inside of the center front:

The entire caraco is lined in white linen. The front is simply turned back, a bone added (I used 1/4" metal stays) and hook & eye sets sewn on for closing.

The quilted petticoat is made from a bed quilt from Target. It has one side seam that I flat felled to make the petticoat reversible. The other side I slit down for the pocket access as well as getting in and out of it. The front and back are separate: the back ties in front then the front covers the knot to tie in back. (The photo below is of the back. You can see the front ties knotted at center back.)

I box pleated the centers then put in large knife pleats to take up the remainder of the panel to fit the waistband. (For convenience, I used the 2" wide grosgrain ribbon that came wrapped around the quilt from the store for the waistband.)

I'm quite happy with the results of my first project "older" than Regency styles. I find that I am really attracted to the 1780s but can't wait to make a Robe a la Francaise gown. Hmmm.... I have that gown already in mind. Anyone see The Slipper & The Rose? :-)


Amber said...

OOOOO I love your idea for the Quilted Petticoat! The whole outfit is quite lovely as well :)

Lauren said...

Very nice! Love it :-)

Clare said...

Hurrah for polonaising!! And for Ikea!!! I can't wait to see the complete ensemble - the caraco is lovely by itself.

Jennifer said...

Thank you all for the generous compliments!
I do really like the way it turned out. I think I'm a sucker for 18th C. jackets now. Very cute and easy to make up. As Sally Queen says: The 18th C. dressed down Friday wardrobe.