Wednesday, August 26, 2009

Sewing, Sewing - 1875 Striped Summer Gown

My! I seem to be moving quickly through projects in the last two months.

So.... I present my latest "insane" costume: an 1875 blue striped, sheer summer gown. The debut will be at the HCA 1870s Picnic on September 20th at the Banning House Museum in the LA area.

Being that most of my costume ideas start from fashion plates or extant garments, this project is no exception.

This is Plate 12 from Full-Color Victorian Fashions: 1870-1893 by JoAnne Olian. I've admired it for some time as it's girl-y and light. The perfect thing for a "Buccaneer" afternoon frolic over the lawns playing croquet and partaking of fresh delicacies.

My fabric is a 1/16" blue stripe on white sheer cotton I snatched up for $2/yd along with a cornflower blue thin cotton (also $2/yd) for the alternating ruffles, apron binding, back sash and sleeve ruffle accents.

28 yards of bias strips for 5 rows of skirt ruffles. It took two days to cut them all out and another two evenings to piece them and press under the top edge.
I will be pinking the hem (No way I'm narrow hemming that amount of bias!) then running each strip thru my ruffler foot. (Remember this is a one-month project, so must cut corners.)

My support structure is a lobster tail bustle as the Truly Victorian basic bustle didn't give me that tapered, 1875-going-into-the-natural-form look. The TV petticoat (an OLD piece from years ago) is next followed by a pad ('cause I need it) then the ruffled petticoat I used under the 1876 Evening Gown.

Here are the skirt panels sewn and pinned to my dressform. The apron is sewn except for the bias hem trim and it's also pinned on. The sides will be pleated then tacked onto the center back panel. The placket opening is in the center back.

The bodice is my 1879 orange/purple bodice that is such a good fit that the pattern will be used as the base with the hem flared and pleated to fit over the bustle and follow the fashion plate.

Now, to name this airy thing. I usually make up basic, descriptive monikers for my costumes but this one needs a name. Nancy or Annabelle or Grace. hmm.....


Jennifer said...

Duh - maybe the name should be Lizzy since this project was partly inspired by Lizzy Elmsworth's black & white striped dress in The Buccaneers when she arrives in England and Runnymede Cottage.

Renske said...

wow! a dress in such a short time!
Lizzy is a very appropriate name.
can't wait to see it finished, i love the fashion plate!