Working With Taffeta Bodices?

Finding the right underlining for taffeta (anything, really) can be a challenge. Last night I was discussing this with my friend, Bridget. She's a buyer for Renaissance Fabrics, and she mentioned they have a new 60" cotton twill that flat lines taffeta beautifully.

19th Century bodices need a lot of under support to hold the bodice in shape, be sturdy enough for boning, and create a firm base for trims. Twill fabric works best for this garment. You can also use a denim or tightly woven poplin as well. Remember, for best results, use 100% cotton or linen or a blend of the two for your underlinings.

So check out RF's new twill for flat lining your latest ballgown bodice. Tell them you heard about it from Cloak & Corset!

The Modern 3-in-1 Historical Garment

My husband has one of those HUGE coats with a lining that zips out. It's a 3-in-1 where you can wear it 1) complete with outer part and lining, 2) just the outer part, or 3) just the thinner lining part. He loves it too.

Well, I said: What a perfectly modern idea for historical wear! Since we in the northern hemisphere are now into the winter season, a new jacket, pelisse or cloak would be just the thing to try out this contemporary styling.

So when you're making up that next outerwear piece, give it this modern twist. Make up the outer layer properly with a good underlining that will wear and show nicely. You may even make the garment up as usual with a proper lining and underlining. Then, using the same pattern (perhaps cut a tiny bit smaller), make up a single layer of the garment for the removable lining. (Finish the edges with binding or a narrow hem.)

Attach the lining inside the outer layer with ties or buttons along the inside edges. You can try hooks and thread loops but they may not hold as well. For period accurate clothing, you, of course, should never use zippers on any garment prior to the early 1930s. Snaps would also work, however they would show when the removable lining was not attached.

So... what a modern take on 19th C. clothing! If you live in a cold climate that extra layer may be just the thing to take you through three seasons. Try using a good cotton or wool flannel for coziness. Then you'll be all ready for that skating party, a walk in the woods, or for traveling to the ball.

Have you already used this trick for a historical outer garment? Write a comment below or send a note to sewing@cloakandcorset.com to let us know your success with it.

Corset Contest - Winners Announced!

Our guest judges and I were wowed by all of the entries for the first Cloak & Corset Corset Sewing Contest! The hard work really showed through. We found it difficult to narrow down the winners as each corset entry had so many good things going for it.

I want to shout out a very warm Thank You to our guest judges, Liz Gerds, shop manager of Farthingales LA and Maegen Hensley, executive assistant at BCBG and Dean of Costume College 2009. Both of these women are accomplished corsetieres and know what to look for in the fine details of Victorian corset construction. Thanks again ladies!

Without further delay, here are the winners of the 2009 Corset Sewing Contest:

Grand Prize: Sahrye Cohen

First Place: Deborah Toy

Second Place: Lisha Vidler

Third Place: Chantal Filson

Congratulations to the winners!! Very well done.

Remember, the contest was judged primarily on the sewing construction of the corset. Fit, fabrics, pattern drafting, etc. were, however, taken into consideration when they affected seams, busk and grommet settings, and overall support and shape of the corset.

Additional photos of the winning corsets will be available for viewing on our website in the near future.

Again, congratulations to the winners and thanks to everyone who entered!

Off-Season or Burnout?

I greatly admire those people who can be continuously working on some sewing/costume project or another. Their knack for always having "something to work on" astonishes me. If I go through too many projects back-to-back, I crash. Hard.

If I have more projects coming due, I allow myself a couple weeks to chill then get back to work. I value my breaks and wear out too quickly if I don't get them. (Do you need break time?)

So I'm currently on a LONG sewing break otherwise known as Costumer Burnout. After each Costume College I take August off, but completing the 1870s striped Lizzy dress for the September picnic was hard for me as I just didn't feel like sewing. Then HCA's Regency Soiree at my home demanded a thrown together outfit for the cook - with no energy (and time) left to complete my own new gown.

And I'm *still* not ready to tackle those two modern business outfits sitting on the cutting table - with pattern altered and fabric pre-treated to bat. True burnout has arrived.

As I read over many of your blogs, LiveJournals and other sites, I find the common thread of burnout at this point in the year. Perhaps it started in late summer/early fall. Or now that Halloween is over you are DONE for the year.

Even with costuming events continuing into the holiday season and beyond (i.e. Victorian skating events, parties, Jane Austen teas and balls, etc.) it seems like our creativity never has a chance to take a breath and rejuvenate.

So I call for a costumers' off-season. Let this time be one to plan your large dream projects for the coming year - complete with deadlines. Brush up on your research of a particular period, garment or technique. Sit by the fireside and embroider for an hour while catching up with good costume dramas or simply chat with family and friends.

If you are one of those who MUST have something on the table when the next event is months away, pull out those long-forgotten undergarments in need of repair or construction.
Make a new set of drawers and chemise.
Attempt that ruffled petticoat you've been putting off.
Take on an entirely new article, the Corded Petticoat. When that Dickens festival, Alamo reenactment, or Gold Rush Days event gets scheduled, you'll be prepared.

Don't let Sewing Off-Season get you down! If you are burned out, re-focus on those people and activities that are just as dear to you as your historical projects. When you're refreshed you'll be ready to take on even the most challenging articles on your list. Enjoy the time off.

Laughing While Lost In Austen

I first heard about the book Lost in Austen when our very own Sara wrote a review of it back in March 2008. It sounded interesting. But I never got my hands on a copy (including hers) to read.

But this week my husband and I rented Lost in Austen, the TV mini-series by Image Entertainment. Wow! We were so pleasantly surprised with how humorous and entertaining it was.

I went into it with low expectations as I couldn't stand the photos showing Jemima Roper as Amanda with her modern hair hanging in her face. Even as a time traveling character. I understand it from a characterization point of view - to distinguish her as from another time/place - but after a few days in Rome you should be following their ways. It bothered me throughout the entire 3 hour film but the distorted story line took some of the attention away.

Amanda switches places with Lizzy Bennet from the famous Pride & Prejudice story. She then realizes that her appearance is disrupting the endeared story we all know, so her task is to make sure the proper characters meet at the designated times so they marry later. You think that Amanda will succeed until a beloved sister ends up with the greasy minister who makes us cringe.

What? How did that happen? Ok - this story just got twisted. Now that it had our attention we were trying to guess at what was to happen next. Every character you *think* you know is somehow a little bit or completely not what you think. Wickham - nope. Caroline Bingley - definitely a surprise. Mr. Bingley - yeah....

A few of the costumes were adequate (Caroline's were some of the best) while others were greatly lacking; definitely rented from the popular costume houses like Cosprop as I spotted a few from other films. Bonnets were of a wide assortment. A few decent styles while some straws screamed "costume" rather than clothing (really didn't like Jane Bennet's wide brimmed topping). Most of the menswear as well looked like Halloween ensembles instead of properly tailored coats and breeches.

So don't see it for Regency research. But DO see it for a laugh and jolly romp with some of our favorite Jane Austen characters (including Mr. Darcy in his wet shirt). Lost in Austen is a great film to put on while sewing your new 1810 picnic dress.

Dressing the New Cook

To celebrate the Autumn season, my husband and I hosted an English Regency dinner party. Our guests included a Duke and Duchess, a Dowager Duchess (a widowed mother of a Duke), ladies and gentlemen down to simple country folks. My husband was the Earl of Averton, I his Countess, and we reside at Avery Hall. (I just love researching old family names to create fictional historical characters.)

The event was sponsored by our civilian reenacting group (HCA). To make the ocassion special, we hired a caterer to prepare all sorts of English treats. This new cook at the Hall just happens to be my sister-in-law, Mrs. Brown. Although she sews, part of her discounted fee was to have me take care of her clothing for this costume-required party.

Now Mrs. Brown lives a few hours away so trying to make even a simple Regency gown was going to be too much. So I went back a few years and decided on simple, late 18th C. pieces befitting a household servant. The easy garments of a petticoat, jacket and apron can be made with no fittings.

The petticoat (a skirt in 18th Century terms) is a burnt orange colored linen, two panels with a drawstring waist - the back panel tied at the front waist and the front tied at the back as petticoats of this time were made. (Thanks to Elizabeth M. for loaning it to the cause.)

The jacket is 18th C. informal wear. I used the JP Ryan Basic Wardrobe pattern to cut the gorgeous brown cotton fabric. I found the fabric at my local Beverly's and was delighted to discover the name marked on the selvage: Old Sturbridge Village. I then knew it was a perfect choice.

I used a larger size pattern for Mrs. Brown which, now that the dinner is over, I will tear apart and cut it down to fit me in my stays. It closes at the center front with straight pins so the fitting is built into the closure. She wore basic modern undergarments.

The apron was a struggle as I couldn't decide on a plain pinner apron with ties at the natural waist or a more Regency style. I studied the aprons in two Sense & Sensibility films (1995 and 2008) and also the PBS Regency House Party. I swear they used the same aprons in all three of these productions. The short bib with shoulder straps and longer skirt reflecting the contemporary fashions was a big pull for me. (Mrs. Brown is a few inches taller than me so the apron looks shorter than usual on her.)

I ended up going the in-between route. The rectangular bib was cut slightly longer with the drawstring waist edge fitting a few inches above the natural waist. The shoulder straps were pinned in place for Mrs. Brown, and I'll remark them later for me and topstitch to the back waist edge.

To finish the new cook's ensemble, a basic linen mob cap was placed over her hair. (It's the cap I made from the instructions in chapter 37 in the Modern Sewing Techniques for Historical Clothing Construction eBook.)

Mrs. Brown donned white knee socks and black flats to complete the look. I believe she fit in quite well as the new Cook at Avery Hall!

The Discovery

Earlier this week I was reading a bit on what Wikipedia said about Steampunk. It's not a terribly new genre of styling, but it has really picked up steam (pun intended) in recent years. And the fact that Steampunk happens to be the theme for next year's Costume College, this trend is starting to go widespread.

I've always been a lover of Victoriana. Soon after college I went through the activities in What Color Is Your Parachute and racked my brain at what kind of career existed for one with a love of sewing, Victorian decorating, and travel. As the years passed and my closet of Victorian clothing expanded, I realized I could never be a true Victorian - I like my Starbucks and Internet too much (among other things).

In my costume sewing, fantasy costumes have never really entered my "playlist." Personally I've been grounded in everyday clothing, the occasional pillow set or window covering, and eventually, classically styled 19th C. fashion. Those ideas off the beaten path intrigued me, but no space was left in my current list of projects.

Then I heard about Steampunk. A couple years ago the name crossed my path, and I casually read more about it. The base is (generally) a Victorian silhouette combined with elements of steam-powered engines and 19th C. Sci-Fi authors like H.G. Wells and Jules Verne.

Ahh... like Back to the Future III and Clara's purple 1890s costume on the steam train time machine. I got it.

I think Steampunk can give my creativity an outlet without straying far from the Victorian daywear I love. Plus, it throws in that element of travel - time travel that is - something I'm naturally curious about anyway.

So back to the Wikipedia Steampunk article: I came across a term - Neo-Victorianism - that was new to me so I clicked to find out more.

Turns out that is EXACTLY what I am. A Neo-Victorian. This was both a 'duh' and an enlightening moment. A lover of 19th Century stuff (living, memorabilia, clothing, decor, etc.) and trying to integrate those ideas and styles into my modern life. Adding touches of Victorian fashion to my modern clothes sewing. The chivalry and romanticism. (My husband opens doors for me.) The picnics and balls. The dreaming of puffed sleeves and Camelot a' la Anne Shirley.

My house, although trying to be of French Country decor, is sprinkled with treasures flavored of the past. I read Victorian Homes magazine and collect Godey's Lady's Books. But I shudder at the loss of toilet paper, fluoride toothpaste, running water, vacuums, refrigerators, Advil and dozens of other items that make my 21st Century life easier.

I long for the "good ol' days" - but not their trials. I was born a century too late - or was I?

No, I enjoy my modern conveniences too much. But I CAN incorporate my passion of Victorian ideals with my blue jeans and call myself a Neo-Victorian.

I have found my place. Now, about that Steampunk costume....